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Deburring - View Thread
Good evening everyone... I just picked up my Emp. kit a few weeks ago. I'm at the point where I've match drilled the skins and disassembled everything for deburring. I'm looking for an easier way to debur the back side of the front and rear spars where the skin is attached. The deburring tool I have doesn't fit... I was considering a dremel tool (or something similar) with a right angle on it... Any hints?
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Deburring - RE: - View Thread
NO! don't use a power tool! Here's the tool you need: http://www.averytools.com/showoneitem.cfm?primarykey=413&cat=50&kit=0. I've used it nearly every day for the last 2 years. The extension helps you get the backsides of those flange holes. You can also get the hex adapter and put the bit in a cordless screwdriver. (low enough rpm you can't do much damage)
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Deburring Tool - View Thread
This may be old news to some but I found a scotchbrite wheel at Wal- Mart that is the real deal for cleaning up edges on ribs and spars. It is a 5 or 6 inch round pad mounted on a 1/4 inch stem. It is made from two pieces of 3/8 thick scotchbrite sandwiched together to make it 3/4 thick. You can slide parts between the two layers and smooth both edges at the same time. I've used it way more than the $50.00 6 inch scotchbrite wheel that goes on my grinder. This costs only about $7.50 and lasted through the whole empennage. You can find these in the paint department. They are the red scotchbrite material. I mounted mine in a drill press and turned it at around 1500 RPM. If you accidentally get your fingers into it, it's no big deal either. It is a pretty safe tool to use. "Try it you'll like it." :)
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First Step Jitters - View Thread
I am getting ready to start on the empennage kit. The parts look so nice out of the box, I almost hate to touch them. In step 2 of the instructions it says to, "Smooth the edges and surfaces of the HS-609PPs (rear spar reinforcement bars) to a satin finish equivalent to that left by 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper". What is the best way to do this that will yield the best results? Is it possible to use 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper in a random orbit disc sander for this operation?
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First Step Jitters - RE: - View Thread
Avery has an arbor for the 6" wheel so you can chuck it in your drill press. I took the scotchbrite wheel out of my bench grinder immediately (spins too fast for me) and I've only used it in the drill press (set up for the slowest speed-700rpm) for the last 1+ years of building. It is very easy to polish the edges of even very long parts this way, just running them along one of several grooves that are now in the wheel. I think it is also safer this way. I've also found that the 4" benchtop belt sander is a must-have tool for the project... with a medium grit abrasive. You can quickly take off burrs and get edges relatively smooth, then a quick pass on the SB wheel and you're done. You'll use the sander more than you'd ever imagine.
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First Step Jitters - RE: - View Thread
I just changed the subject slightly here, but it applies to the initial subject and has worked well for me. I have kept a "part" of Graham's response attached for continuity but deleted the rest for sake of brevity on the note. Anyway, I agree with Graham that running the part straight up and down the wheel will eventualy cause a grove to be dug into the wheel. I have found this to be a good deal tho, as long as the grove does not get too deep. The grove will guide the part and buff the edges at the same time. I always have 6 or 8 groves in the surface of the wheel and by dressing it down when required one wheel should last for the entire plane. When the groves get too deep and start cutting knives as Graham described, just dress the wheel down with an old file etc as Bob Avery describes in his catalog. If you don't have access to the Avery catalog let me know and I will transcribe the proceedure for you.
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First Step Jitters - RE: - View Thread
Use a Scotchbrite pad. Much faster and easier than sandpaper for that job.
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First Step Jitters - RE: - View Thread
Buy the 3M wheel from Van's or other suppliers. It is 7" in diameter and fits on most bench grinders - you'll love it and use it a LOT. It will produce a smoother finish than 400 grit paper, too.
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First Step Jitters - RE: - View Thread
Get you some scotch brite wheels. I use the 2 inch variety in a cheap die grinder that I bought from Harbor freight. Others use a 6 inch variety on a mounted grinder. Below is from Avery but Cleaveland tools and others sell them as well. Run these up and down the edges a few times and it'll clean up really fast. Doug 3M SCOTCH-BRITE wheels are a uniform blend of minerals and resins molded into wheel form with rugged, dense construction that provides aggressive polishing and blending action without removing excess base materials. These wheels generate uniform finishes and can remove minor surface imperfections. Use these wheels with a die grinder for deburring holes and edges. Small wheels are more versatile than large (6") wheels. Can be used on hand held parts or parts in the jig. These wheels are the same density, grade, and mineral type as the 7A MED 6" wheel. Both mandrels have 1/4" shanks.
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Scotch Brite Wheel for Dremel Tool - View Thread
Anybody know where I can order a scotch-brite wheel for the dremel tool? I have seen people refer to them so I know they exist, but I've been unable to find them in stores or online.
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Scotch Brite Wheel for Dremel Tool - RE: - View Thread
I found that Dremel Tool #500 (http://www.dremel.com/html/home_fr.html Grinding and Sharpening section) works well on edges that I can't get to with my other scotchbrite wheels (small, medium and large). I think I picked it up in Home Depot or True Value.
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Scotch Brite Wheel for Dremel Tool - RE: - View Thread
You're looking for the Dremel# 500 Abrasive Wheel. I get mine at Home Depot & Lowes. They cost around $5. They do wear out quickly especially when doing edge work.
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